September 14, 2012

Lamprey with rice recipe

Lamprey is not a fish and have cartilaginous skeleton. Local fishermen tie the lamprey by the head and pour it in and out of boiling water several times to kill it. Then they scrub the skin up and down with the help of hard cloth to remove dirt but to keep the skin intact. They remove a nerve in the head and they make an incision in the animal’s belly. From there they make several cuts in tail’s direction along the surface of the lamprey’s body. This will help to reach and remove intestine and bill through the first incision. This is a delicate operation. The flesh will taste bitter and the dish will be spoiled if they don’t remove it intact. They keep the blood that drains to a recipient. The blood will be used to prepare this famous dish. They pour a glass of wine or vinegar in the recipient so the blood does not coagulate. This dish is typical from Baixo Mondego region-lampreys go up this river that meets the sea at Figueira da Foz. Rice production takes place in Baixo Mondego fields. This region offers a magnificent changeable landscape along the year due to different rice cultivation stages. From January to March restaurants from Baixo Mondego offer this highly prized and expensive dish and attract people from everywhere.

For 3 persons

Half a lamprey

A glass of fresh blood

5dl of red wine

4 garlic tooth

A small onion



White pepper

For the rice

150 gr of rice

One medium onion

2 dl of olive oil

Nutmeg in powder to taste

Pepper to taste

Salt to taste


Cut half lamprey in sections and put in recipient. Add minced garlic, parsley, and a small onion in pieces, white pepper and salt. Cover with red wine. Join the glass of fresh blood supplied by the fisherman. Let it rest for six hours in that “marinada”.

In a saucepan over the heat get the olive oil and the minced onion and let it fry until it looks kind of “blond”. (Cover the minced onion with oil.)Then add the lamprey sections and let it fry for 10 minutes. Keep turning the chunks in the saucepan. Add the “marinada” slowly, the juice where the lamprey has been resting. Let it boil slowly in low fire. Use a fork to assure the flesh is cooked; if it’s tender it is good. Now it’s time to check the flavoring- the “tempero”- and add more salt or pepper if necessary. Add the powder nutmeg. Nutmeg is main spice of this dish so it must be used generously.

Now for the rice: in a new saucepan pour some of the cooked lamprey’s sauce. Get all the sauce you can but do not leave the lamprey without any. Join water that is enough to cook the rice.(1 portion of rice/ 4 portions of water) Check the flavouring again and adjust salt, pepper and nutmeg if necessary. Let the rice cook for 15 minutes. The rice must be served very hot and soaked. It can be served separately or you can add the lamprey chunks to it. Enjoy! Bom apetite!

BUT many seem not to like the poor lamprey!

September 3, 2012

Fire season in Portugal

Every Summer we watch this happen we know it will not be the last time. But yesterday, Mata Nacional de Fôja, between Santo Amaro da Boiça and Santana, was on fire. This is 10 minutes from where I live. Santana is just a few kilometers from Figueira da Foz. In the afternoon the sky got dark with the smoke. I could see it from my window. The air smelled of smoke and burning wood. The sun disappeared in the heavy brownish colored clouds of smoke. We're experiencing high temperatures and strong winds. This is the result. 130 fireman, 38 vehicles and plain dealing with hell. I don't know what set these fire hoods. Very sad. Photos were taken by Tiago Cação and there are more of it in his Facebook Album. This young man was moved by what he found." Se o inferno existe, é bem próximo daquilo que eu estava a assistir", he wrote. If hell exists, it must be close to what I'm watching.